One of my very Favourite Things about air travel is the insane cultural whiplash you can experience in only a few hours. It’s pretty incredible, when you think about it. One moment one is involved in their sleepy little life, and the next moment one is on the Vegas strip, being bombarded with sights and sounds and lights and people. And then? Back to the sleepy little life.
We had an absolute blast in Las Vegas; we got back on Monday and things have been smoothly puttering along since then. We have houseguests arriving today, but not for a happy reason: our friends from Ottawa, who we will be visiting next month, are here for his father’s funeral. What this means is that we have our anniversary, two birthdays, and a funeral, all on the same day. Well, we celebrated our anniversary in Vegas, really, and my son is spending his Saturday night 20th birthday NOT with his parents, and I have always vowed that Rex’s special day shall be October 10, the day he came to us, and NOT on his actual birthday. I only have so much bandwidth, people.
But Vegas! As I mentioned before I am a non-gambler, and yet this is my fourth time in Vegas. There are many things to do in Vegas for people like me, but of course, gambling IS the main event there. I find it fascinating and wild to walk through the casinos; it’s exciting, seeing people at the craps tables, and also depressing, seeing people glassily hitting the spin button on the video terminals at 7:00 in the morning. One thing that was very surprising to me is that all of the casinos allow smoking. It’s been so long since I experienced cigarette smoke indoors that I found it kind of shocking. There was a lot of pot smoke too, and while I dislike cigarette smoke I absolutely loathe the smell of pot. It makes me feel actually nauseous, but happily the casinos do have great ventilation systems and unless a person is right beside someone smoking, it’s not noticeable, to me anyway. Another thing I noticed was that there were many fewer cocktail waitresses bringing free drinks to the gamblers, with the exception of the people at the card tables. Vegas in general is insanely expensive, much more so than the last time we were there, in 2015.
Speaking of that last trip, prior to it I had stayed healthy and virus-free for months leading up to it, which is remarkable considering I had elementary-school-aged kids at that time, and the morning of our trip I woke up with a head cold. Back then I doped myself up with cold medication and that, with the addition of a lot of alcohol, led to me having a prolonged and dramatic nosebleed in the middle of one of those super-expensive shops at Caesar’s Palace. I had to make a run down the fake-marble floors to the washroom, where people averted their eyes at what they assumed was a cocaine-addled hot mess. It wasn’t my best moment, and so I wasn’t super excited to wake up last Tuesday with a sore throat and general malaise. Not wanting history to repeat itself, I kicked it into High Gear, Tender Loving Personal Care-wise, and did almost nothing but sleep and eat for the days leading up to our flight and I am happy to report that I was mostly recovered, energetic, and, crucially, public nosebleed-free for the trip.
Was that too much information? Perhaps. Anyway! I have much to say so I will start with all of my Favourite Things.
Nicole’s Favourite Things: The Viva Las Vegas Edition
This Flower Loves Flowers
We stayed at the Bellagio, and arrived around noon on Friday, and it was absolute mayhem. There were so many people everywhere, and I noticed this amazing indoor garden, but the number of people there made it impossible to move through it. Happily the crowds are almost non-existent in the morning hours, and so I was able to walk through and admire it all.
The garden was a tea party theme, and all the flowers were spring ones. I am delighted to tell you that two of my girlfriends were there recently, and the themes change with the seasons; my friend Megan (HI MEGAN) was there when it was Lunar New Year-themed, and my friend Karin (HI KARIN) was there at Christmas to see the Nutcracker theme. I love thinking that this is someone’s JOB, to create a new garden regularly, and in the morning I watched the grounds crew replanting and watering, and it just seemed to me to be the loveliest occupation possible. Am I excited to get started on my own gardens? YES I AM.
Food, Miraculous Food
Right next to the garden was a delightful breakfast and lunch place called Sadelle’s, a gorgeous place that had the most incredible avocado toast. We went there every morning for breakfast and every morning I ordered this:
For our anniversary dinner we went to another restaurant in the Bellagio called Harvest, and let me tell you, it was absolutely incredible. They had a full, separate vegan menu that was so divine that my husband ordered off of it. We had other great meals too, including a falafel pita at this crazy little hole-in-the-wall place that was to die for.
This drink was called You Broke My Heart, Fredo, so of course I had to order it. Times two. It was delicious albeit expensive, although probably pretty average for Vegas prices. I mean, don’t apply the exchange rate or think too hard about it, is the moral of the story.
Show Me The Way
We went to see Cirque de Soleil’s KA, which was absolutely incredible. In 2015 we went to see O, which I think is actually a better show, but our seats for this were perfect and the performers were acrobatically swinging right above us at times. The breathtaking strength of the performers has to be seen to be believed.
We also went to the Sphere, which is a pretty amazing work of technology and engineering. The show we saw there was Postcard From Earth, about which I have much to say, but for brevity’s sake will tell you that it is an incredible experience and is absolutely stunning.
Not So Still Waters
The Bellagio has a famous water and, if you see it at night, light show that happens…well, I don’t know how often it happens. It seems like it happens every half hour, but it could be more frequent than that. There is music playing, often some old school Elvis or Frank Sinatra, which I am HERE for, although my husband and I had a great conversation on what life would have been like for those two specific performers prior to the days of the 24-hour news cycle, social media, or, you know, feminism. Pardon me while I separate the art from the artists here, because I do love that music, even if the performers themselves were pretty suspect.
I also loved the water show both during the day and at night:
It’s a gorgeous hotel and I’m so glad we stayed there.
A Miracle of Chocolate Engineering
Speaking of fountains, the Bellagio also is the proud home of the World’s Largest Chocolate Fountain, which impressed me to no end and which my husband probably does not want to hear about ever again. But you guys! It’s the World’s! Largest! Chocolate! Fountain!
You might be wondering if I partook in any of the chocolatey delights, and sadly, the answer is no. There was a glorious patisserie and gelato assortment, but all of it was very dairy-heavy. Whomp whomp.
That’s It! You People Have Stood In My Way Long Enough! I’m going to Clown College!
Remember the episode of The Simpsons when Homer goes to Clown College, and then he admires himself whilst wearing the requisite pants? Homer incessantly talks about how comfortable the pants are, while Krusty yells that the pants are supposed to be baggy. Baggy!
This is how I felt in my new plane pants.
I know, I know, I JUST talked about skinny jeans and the horror that are wide-leg pants, but we should all know that I cannot be trusted when it comes to advertising. To be completely honest, I really wanted a pair of pants to wear on the plane that would be cute, stylish, and, most of all, comfortable. As some of you may know, I have some pretty serious circulation issues that require the wearing of full-length – up to my bra line, people – medical grade compression hose for any flight over about an hour. My hose are “nude” and I only need to put on a patterned housedress with white open-toed sandals to display the reinforced toe to become my own grandmother. Anyway, a fun little side effect of my myriad circulatory issues is that my legs also actually swell up on planes, even with the compression hose, which makes any non-yoga pants to be very tight and uncomfortable.
So I was on the search for new travel pants and Lululemon had these on clearance; it’s a risk, buying pants online, but I have what is known as a “Sweat Membership” at Lulu, and one of the many perks is that I can return clearance items. Full-length, they look like frumpy palazzo pants from 1996, but I cuffed them and added boots and a close-fitting top, and I think it worked!
By the way, “kale salad” on that sign was only an advertising gimmick. There was no kale salad.
Outfit of the Month
Speaking of boots, having the right footwear is so important in Vegas.
Those heels are normally very comfortable, but after 20,000 steps and a day of walking and a couple of You Broke My Heart, Fredos, wearing them made me feel like Lotus from The Good Earth. Except with giant swollen feet. So not at all like Lotus, but I was walking like Lotus with tiny, painful steps, and I ended up carrying my shoes and classily walking in my stocking feet after dinner, through the casino, and back up to our room. Huge shout-out to Sheertex stockings, because they are still intact after all that abuse.
What I am saying is my little Sorel boots are the unsung heroes of this trip. So comfortable, so grippy, so cute, they held up for miles and miles of walking, and I did not have sore feet for even a minute with them on.
I bought this Lululemon rain coat when I moved to Kelowna: it’s unlined, which is a completely impractical item while living in Calgary, because when it rains, it’s freezing and probably raining sideways. But in Kelowna it can rain and still be warm, so this coat is perfect. It was also perfect for Vegas, because look at this forecast:
It was actually warmer in Kelowna than in Vegas, which wasn’t actually as bad as that sounds; I find cooler weather to be better for walking around and exploring. The Sorel boots are also unlined and waterproof, which was perfect because, as Vicki, our world-weary Uber driver originally from Oregon said, Vegas has no drainage and can flood with less than an inch of rain. It’s true, there were giant puddles of standing water everywhere. The sun came out when we were leaving, and our other Uber driver, Vernon said that he hadn’t seen a nice day like this in months. Months! The day we were leaving! Ah, well, one cannot control the weather. Vernon, in case you’re wondering, was originally from Miami but has lived in Las Vegas for twenty-eight years, and the only thing he misses about Florida is access to his eleven grandchildren. When I said wow, eleven grandchildren, how nice, he talked for a while about how his two sons make choices, and he does NOT have an opinion on those choices, but one of his daughters-in-law practices a religion that will not allow her to get her tubes tied, and he doesn’t know why and he doesn’t WANT to know why, it’s not his business, but yes, ma’am, he misses his grandchildren. It was a ride. A literal ride!
People are SO interesting, and I have a lot of people-watching to tell you about – we were inadvertently there during St Patrick’s Day, and there were thematic green clothing items and shamrock headbands as far as the eye could see – but it will have to wait until later. In the meantime, if you’d like to tell me your Vegas Vacation Stories, or any story about your favourite things this month, I would love to hear them. xo
I’ve never been to Vegas but I love your recap, makes me feel like I was a fly on the (casino) wall. Those flowers were beautiful and creative! You look amazing in your black dress and wide leg pants and Happy Anniversary!
Thanks so much, Colleen! It was very fun!
I can just imagine you talking to Vernon, the Uber driver, in my head. What I think I am realizing about you is that you must talk to people, or you have a face that makes people talk to you, because I rarely talk to my Uber driver! The exception is usually when I come or go from the airport, but the story is often the same (although I once did get a story from a guy about how he was going to go to Turkey to get hair plugs because apparently it is very cheap to get it done there versus here).
The Bellagio garden is beautiful! When I was there last (January 2019) it was Chinese New Year themed (the year of the pig) and was wonderful. I also loved all of their glass displays and the light/water shows! I am otherwise not really a fan of the casinos, the glassy eyed look, or the smoking (or the crowded sidewalks, but I did take an early morning run along the strip which was much better re crowds).
Kyria, on my very first Uber ride ever, our conversation got so involved that the driver missed my turnoff and ended up having to go way out of his way to turn around and get back on the main thoroughfare! So, um, maybe I could tamp down my chattiness, I guess. But people seem to want to tell me everything, and I like it!
Sounds like a fun trip. The garden is beautiful and trippy, too. Beth and I were in Vegas for just one day during a trip to a bunch of Southwest national parks sometime in the early or mid-90s. All the hotel decorations were elaborate then, but not quite like now, I think. We didn’t gamble either, well, actually I put a nickel in a slot machine so I could say I did.
According to our Uber driver Vernon, the first big, over the top hotel was New York, New York – and I think that maybe you were there prior to that. Some of the old hotels have been taken down and gigantic new themed ones have taken their place!
I have never been to Vegas but I find it heartening to know it is possible to enjoy it without gambling! They still allow smoking though?!?!?! I don’t know if I can handle that. I abhor cigarette smoke.
That garden! That chocolate fountain! They both seem so representative of the glorious excess of Vegas.
Good footwear is SO HARD. I remember stressing about it when we went to Europe five years ago and trying to find The Perfect Shoes. Well. My most comfortable shoes turned out to be my ancient Born riding boots. We had a lot of rain on that trip, too, and I’m with you — I prefer cool weather when I’m sightseeing.
I hope you have as pleasant a time as possible with your friends. What a sad reason for them to visit, but how comforting for them to be able to be with you and your family while enduring a loss.
Thanks Suzanne! I found that unless I was directly beside someone smoking (which didn’t really happen except when we were walking through the casino and stopped to look) I didn’t notice the smoke. The ventilation is great there. Also, I think they pump extra oxygen into the casinos? Or so I’ve heard!
Yay that what happened in Vegas didn’t stay in Vegas! I’ve never been there AND I don’t gamble, but I definitely intend to go some time.
Smoking was a thing at the resort last month, and it was definitely a “wait did we time travel back to 2002?” kind of thing. Your nosebleed story is classic.
Your husband has figured out the secret – vegans eat good! Shhh….don’t tell everyone. Oh wait, DO tell everyone so that there will be more vegan restaurants. There’s a time to be cheap and a time to be spendy and drinks on vacation is definitely the time to be spendy.
I’m always so surprised when there is smoking anywhere! Like you, I’m wondering what year it is. I’m surprised it was at your resort – there were some small designated places at the one we went to.
It’s been years since we’ve been to Vegas. I remember how over the top it was– and how much walking you had to do to get from one casino the next one. I’ve had drinks at some bar in the Bellagio but never eaten there. So pleased you shared your photos with us here. Pretty, pretty.
Yes, Ally, and if you inadvertently get stuck in a casino it’s nearly impossible to find your way out again. I remember the MGM Grand as being especially bad. We had to go there for KA and we had to ask directions to get out!
I enjoyed this post very much. And the wide-leg pants look fab.
Thanks so much Ariana!
What gorgeous photos! Las Vegas really is over the top, and I still remember the painful blisters on my feet from so much walking! I remember the Bellagio fountain as one of the most amazing things I’ve ever seen. Every outfit you shared looks so classy and gorgeous, and I love your travel pants. I’m sorry you have circulatory issues to worry about. Did you get to fly first class?
It really is amazing how a whole different world is just a plane ride away! I’ve found that too, recently. Just in weather alone!
Oh yes, you definitely have done some travel recently!
SO MUCH WALKING in Vegas! I mean, I love walking so it’s all good, but if I didn’t have the right shoes…argh! That would have sucked.
As always, such a fabulous post and recap, Nicole. I’m so sorry your friends are visiting for less-than-lovely reasons, but I hope you still enjoy the time spent together and I’m sure your presence will be comforting in this time of loss. All the things happening at once feels a bit akin to Four Weddings and a Funeral.
Vernon! That story is golden. The conversations you have…
“Don’t apply the exchange rate or think too hard about it, is the moral of the story.” Haha. WISE WORDS!
Happy Anniversary, birthday celebrating etc <3 I hope there is cake involved!
Also, that little black dress is divine.
Thank you so much, Elisabeth! People are so funny, I love getting their stories.
Vegas is so much fun and I always find that those who are negative about it have never been there. We love to visit the Bellagio, but have never stayed there. Isn’t the garden area fabulous? We’ve only visited in the summer months. Last time, it was an oceanic theme, which was very cool. But I LOVE LOVE LOVE the tea party theme. So CUTE!
Did the Sphere make you dizzy or seasick? That is what I would fear.
Oh, I’ve got Vegas stories/memories . . . trying to prevent my 9 YO son from picking up the porn business cards that littered the sidewalks back in the day, being seated in the 2nd row at Crazy Girls when we were there for our 10th anniversary (I asked to be moved as I don’t need to see nakedness that close!), hitting 4 buffets in 24 hours because we had a 24 hour family pass, being rudely awakened by a drunk at 6 am at MGM Grand who was yelling, “Wake up, Mother****ers” (my kids still like to quote him), telling our kids we were going down to the casino while they watched TV in an adjoining room when we were actually going to do some ‘intercoursing’ in the adjoining room (locked door) after the end of our 2 week trip out west, high fiving all the passerbys as we walked around in our Cleveland shirts when the Cavs won the NBA championship that day in 2016. GOOD TIMES!!!
AN OCEANIC THEME!!!! Oh, that sounds lovely too. I was SO charmed by the tea party!
Wake up motherfuckers is now my favourite thing! Hahahaha! Ah, people are so funny.
You know what, there weren’t that many porn cards that I noticed this time around! Lots of showgirls posing for photos (a couple with pasties, which, at those temperatures! Those poor things) but not a lot of guys handing out porn cards!
I am not much of a traveler, so I don’t have a LONG Places I’d Like To Go list—but I DO have one, and Vegas is on it. I like big and fancy and sparkly and over-the-top. I don’t think I’d like gambling, but I think I’d like the Sphere, and fountains (water and chocolate), and the general feel of cheerful excess.
Oh you would LOVE it, Swistle, because everything is big and sparkly and fancy and fun. It’s just a good time!
Ha, I love how over-the-top everything is in Vegas!!! That garden- the chocolate fountain- the light show- and on and on. I have to say I was so intrigued about this Harvest vegan menu that I looked it up, and yes, it does sound AMAZING!!! This is coming after two meals out at different restaurants that each had ONE vegan option, and they were pretty lackluster. I clearly need to go to Vegas just to eat at Harvest.
Your travel pants look SO CUTE. The do not say “clown pants” or “this woman is wearing compression stockings” at all. You might have to think about wearing wide leg pants in your everyday life now, they look so good.
So… happy birthday to your son and REX! And sorry to hear about your friend’s father. I hope you enjoy your houseguests in spite of the sad occasion.
Lolololol I am glad they don’t say “clown pants” or “compression stockings!” Thank you!! Oh Jenny, I did think of you when we were at Harvest because when they brought the menu I was just blown away. It was by far the best meal out I have had!
Cocaine-addled mess – that made me chuckle. I once got a nosebleed on a first date. Ew. So icky and embarrassing.
I have never been to Vegas. I do not gamble but dang- those photos and the food and the show’s . . . well, it sounds amazing. The flower photos remind me of a Disney type garden. That dress is all kinds of fabulous. The flared pants look good too. Sorel boots for the win.
Was your son born on your actual anniversary? Happy anniversary. Happy birthday to your 20 yo. Sorry that your friend is visiting for such a sad reason.
Ernie, yes! My son was born on our anniversary! I was going into the hospital at 7:30 pm and I had to be induced. The nurses were like, first baby, there is no way he’ll be born on your anniversary – well, he arrived at 11:55pm! So our anniversary was forever eclipsed!
That’s crazy! I was induced all 6 times and they all took forever. My babies were happy in utero and really needed to be coaxed out.
I’ve never been to Vegas… probably because it all seems so exuberant! Maybe one day we will visit when we feel like being festival and impressed by all the features.
Your travel pant looks great! I use Vuori jogger as travel pants. So comfortable and fairy and casual chic look. I’m all about comfort when traveling.
And yes, fully agree on the culture shift/change when traveling. I found that every time I go to a new place, including my hometown Shanghai. The vibe is different, people are different, and even myself behaves differently there. So interesting!
Ooooh I should look into those joggers – I think you do a lot of travelling so I will defer to you! It is so interesting to see cultural shifts even when you don’t go “far” from home!
So happy you had such a good time! I hated having to walk through the casino part of the hotel. I don’t like the smell of pot, but the smell of cigarette smoke is worse for me – disturbs my stomach, my head and my overly dramatic lungs.
I walked through those Bellagio gardens every chance I had. So beautiful.
I think O was possibly the favourite show of my entire life and I would go see it a dozen times. Wait, there’s also Les Miserables. Okay, top two.
No kale salad? What bullshit. I also didn’t try anything at the chocolate fountain place. There was so much stuff it gave me decision paralysis.
O was such a great show, I don’t think it could be topped! You know what I love, even though the story is creepy and weird, is Phantom of the Opera. Yes, it’s a terrible story! But the music is so good and the crash of the chandelier in Masquerade is one of my favourite moments! Also Think of Me is one of my favourite songs! I like Les Mis too (at the end of the day you’re another day older, I think to myself all the time!)
What a fun vacation! Your first point about air travel and the sudden cultural changes is so spot on. Love the pictures, it all looks so over-the-top in the best possible way!
I think the only time we’ve been to Vegas is because someone was attending a conference/convention there… One time, A was going to be busy all day, so he booked an all-day spa day for me and my bestie and we had a tremendous time trying everything and chatting.
How happy was Rexie when you showed up to collect him?!
Ooooh an all-day spa!
Oh my goodness, Maya, is there anything better than being reunited with your pup after an absence? It was amazing.
I went to Vegas in 2019. The cigarette smoke was brutal. Maybe the ventilation systems have been improved since I was there, but I found smoke permeated most of the buildings. I am super sensitive to smoke, though, so that might be just me. I also found the massive crowds of people everywhere to be overwhelming (the fountain show you talked about was the worst for this – getting elbowed in the ribs and someone put their arm ON TOP OF MY HEAD), so I was sort of on edge the whole time and unable to truly appreciate the spectacle of the whole thing.
The Bellagio gardens are so impressive. We didn’t stay there, so we were always there when it was super crowded, so I’m quite envious of your luxurious morning time! What a treat. I spent $17 on a crepe somewhere in the MGM Grand and I still think about it!
Engie, I think maybe the ventilation systems were all overhauled during the pandemic. So it might not be just you! But I think that Vegas was essentially shut down for a long while, and maybe in order to entice people back they enhanced the ventilation systems.
The crowds were pretty crazy! I am not generally bothered by crowds but even I found them to be a lot!
I think you know that I typically take uber comforts because I can set the conversation preference and I set it to quiet. If I could set it to “don’t talk to me” I would. I promise I am a friendly person but I do not like small talk with strangers AT ALL and often when I am traveling I am so peopled out that I relish any bit of silence I can grasp! So we are polar opposites when it comes to uber conversations but very similar in other regards, I think!
I am glad that you had such a wonderful time in Vegas! Happy Anniversary and happy birthday to your son. Sorry to hear about the guests coming because of a funeral but I’m glad they’ll have a place of comfort to stay during that trip.
I did not even know such a thing existed, that you can set conversation preference. That’s a really great feature, honestly. I love chit chatting but if I took Ubers more than six times a year I might not want to have extensive conversations with the drivers!
I think I took 6 this week!! Ha! So yes, not at all a novelty. Too bad there isn’t a frequent flier equivalent for Uber. I am a heavy user!
I haven’t been to Vegas in a long time, but it’s a fun place, even for introverts! I loved the Bellagio and the fountains. There is so much to do there that is not gambling – and in the summer time there are some great pools. Being the florist at a casino would be a dream job… but then I’d have to live in Vegas and that may be a step too far!
Hmmm this is an excellent point – and according to Vicki, the first Uber driver (from Oregon) everyone who lives in Vegas is, to quote her directly, an asshole. Every single one of them, Sarah! Ah, it cracked me up. But maybe we all WOULD be assholes if we were constantly surrounded by Vegas and its strange excess. Still, imagine creating a giant garden every month or six weeks, with a pretty much unlimited budget!
We were in Vegas in October and the Bellagio gardens were all done up with a harvest/fairy theme. It was delightful! The Sphere was also amazing, we went to U2 for my husband’s 50th birthday – teens in tow – and the concert was amazing. Taking teens to Vegas is a risk but we only told them to avert their eyes a couple of times. 😃 Thanks for all the Bellagio pics!
Oh, a harvest theme! I love that!!! There are lots of families in Vegas, you weren’t alone! U2 must have been neat to see.
Every time I’m on a cruise and I pass by the casino, I get so sad for the people who are sitting there playing the slots over and over and over again. I get so bored playing the slots after a few minutes! I don’t understand the appeal.
I’d love to visit Vegas someday – and the Bellagio! Snazzy!! I think it would be fun to go to some shows, but I’m sure I would be OVER IT after a few days haha.
For me, this was the perfect amount of time. Arrive Friday, leave Monday. I was ready to go home!
The Bellagio is always a treat with the updated Flower Scenes! I remember seeing the Chinese New Year there once; it was spectacular! I’m so glad you had such a great time; stinky about the wet weather though….did Vegas forget it was The Desert?
I also can’t take the Smoking inside. Gag. Cough. Even with the ventilation, it pains me and I feel like I’m constantly washing my hair to rid myself of the smoke.
The Uber drivers. *sigh* How could you even respond?
I loved KA and O!! I’ve not seen this Sphere thing yet; looks interesting.
I’m so fascinated that they change the themes so frequently – what a cool thing!!